Technical Support Page
The best part of the bikes we sell are that they are not only reliable, they are simple, which means easy to work on. There isn't much that can go wrong, and if something ever does, an average handy person, without prior motorcycle experience, has an excellent chance of troubleshooting these bikes, and repairing them. Most problems can be solved without parts, by loosening a bolt or two, making an adjustment, then retightening the bolts. Many times the problem will be solved by just tightening a bolt. Should parts ever be needed, we carry parts for our bikes, or you can go to your local Honda dealer.
This page will always be a work in progress. As questions are brought up by my customers, I will try to answer them, then later, as time permits, I will post them here. Someday this will become comprehensive, for now it is but a start. There are also great articles on other Web sites, as I get permission to link to them, I will do that, rather than spending my time duplicating what someone else has already done.
Assembly basics: There are other importers of these bikes besides us, since we deal directly with the factory and customize our orders, our assembly is different then what is sold by other; so while there are sites that show in great detail how to assemble their bikes, it doesn't pertain to ours (80% of they require their customer to do, we already had the factory do). Our bikes are nearly assembled, generally speaking, needing only the following:
Cut the shipping straps, and lift off the cardboard box (leaving a metal floor and metal cage).
Remove 4 nuts, cut 2 metal wire ties, and remove the metal cage.
Bolt on the front fender.
Remove the front axle bolt holding the forks to the crate.
Install the front wheel, using the bolt and nut previously removed.
Raise (or on some models bolt on) the handle bars.
Fill the tires with air.
Adjust the chain.
Check the tightness of all the bolts.
Check for proper oil level (they come already filled).
Add gasoline (since the engine is four stroke, DO NOT ADD OIL TO THE GAS).
Start the bike, if needed, adjust the idle.
That's about it! Some models have batteries or other things that need to be attached. For more details specific to each model and pictures showing the major steps, Click on the bike you are working on, or the one closest to it.
LF200GY NOTE: Critical issue WARNING
How to adjust the idle: (coming soon)
Engine Wiring diagram 
(click to enlarge) Diagram shows
basics bike needs to run. Other wires your bike has, might be used for
lights etc., but the bike will run if the basics are correct.
Problem Solving (common to most bikes, use the links above for problems specific to your bike)
Symptom: Bike won't start.
Solution: Follow the steps bellow, in order, until the bike starts. The first 4 steps solves the problem most of the time.
Check the gas tank for gas, if necessary fill to at least 1/4 full (they run so ling on so little, it's easy to forget to fill it).
Check the gas shutoff valve: It should be down for on, and horizontal for off, some models also have it up for reserve.
If the bike has a key switch, be sure it is turned on.
All bikes have an emergency shutoff switch, better known as the KILL switch. It is located on the handlebar where it can be easily accessed. All our kill switches toggle (they are not momentary hold), meaning that once pressed the bike will stay off until pressed again. On some models, the switch rocks, having 2 buttons, a large part and a small part; the small part needs to be down for the bike to run. Some models have a push button that pushes in, when pushed again it moves out; it needs to be in the OUT position for the bike to run.
Use the kick starter to give it 1 good kick.
Turn the throttle 1/8 turn and use the kick starter to give it 1 good kick.
Check the choke, it should be in the RUN position, which is down (Trail Ryders are cabled to the handlebars, Run is to the right). If the bike is cold, then turn the choke on, give it 1/8 throttle and 1 kick. If the bike is warm and the choke is ON, or up, then turning the choke off will solve the problem (though it could be flooded, which can be overcome by holding the throttle wide open, then kicking it over several times, if you hear the engine try to start, then try to start it by having the throttle closed or open only 1/8 of a turn. Flooding can also be overcome by letting the bike sit for half an hour or more in temperature above 60% F. Severe flooding can foul the spark plug; removing, then cleaning the plug should solve the problem).
Only if the bike is new, and has never run, go to the 'Adjust Idle' section (if it has been running, it is probably something else).
It is rare that the above did not solve the problem. At this point you need to determine were the problem is. First check for spark. You can do this by removing the spark plug, attaching the wire and having the metal part of the plug touching the engine, kick the engine over and you should see a small blue flash on the plug (shade the plug from direct light to make it easier to see). If the plug sparks, go to the next step. If is does not spark, check the fuse, if it is good, replace the spark plug. If there is still no spark, recheck the ignition switch and the kill switch. If you have another CDI module, you could try it, but they rarely go out. At this point you need to check wiring harness for loose, broken or shorted wires (beyond the scope of this help section).
Having checked that you have spark, check for gas by opening the drain on the carburetor (a screw on the bottom a hose that runs to the ground), gas should run out. If so, go to the next step. If not, then recheck the valve position, and that there is gas in tank. Check the gas line for kinks or being pinched. Remove the gas line from the tank and see if gas comes out. There is a filter in the tank, this could be clogged if you used contaminated gas; remove the tank, empty it, remove the valve assembly and clean the filter sticking up from the assembly. Take apart the valve assembly if needed.
Check to see if the gas is getting thru the carburetor by kicking it a few times, remove the spark plug and see if it is wet. If so go to the next step. If not, the carburetor might be dirty (although simple for as far as carburetors go, if you are uncomfortable working on carburetors, it would be best to get someone to help you). For the procedure, see below.
Having spark and gas, check for compression. There should be resistance when the bike is kicked over, when the plug is removed, use a pressure gauge or placing your finger into the spark plug hole, then kick the engine over, your finger should be pushed away and a gush of air/fuel should swish past. If the compression is OK, then go to the next step. The most common reason for lack of compression is that the valves need to be adjusted (see manual).
If your bike still doesn't start, you have a problem that will require you to call us (if the bike is new), or take the bike to a mechanic.
Symptom: The bike will only run with the choke, won't idle or won't run at high RPMs.
Solution: Clean the jets in the carburetor:
If the bike has been sitting in the heat, especially inside parked car, or shed, and the gas was not drained from the tank (the longer it has been since it was started, the more likely that this will happen), the gas will evaporate and clog the jets. New bikes can have this as well, the especially if it was shipped in hot weather.
Caution: if you are unfamiliar with carburetors, ask someone to help you. Remove the 2 bolts from the intake manifold to the carburetor, push the carburetor away from the intake manifold, allowing the plastic spacer to come out.
You should be able to turn the carburetor enough to access the 2 Phillips screws holding the bowl on; remove the bowl.
The 2 slotted screws with holes in them are the main jet (middle one), and the idle jet. Unscrew the jets and look through them (magnifying glass helps), they should be hollow and allow light, all the way through. Compressed air can clear them if the gas hasn't dried too hard, if it has, you will need to soak the jet in lacquer thinner (or another strong solvent). You can use a thin wire to help unclog the jet, but be careful not to break the wire inside, or to enlarge the hole.
Symptom: The bike rattles and clanks.
Solution: Check the following:
Chain should be tight and lubed. The chain should not feel loose, or very tight, it should move 3/4 inch when you push it with your finger (see manual). You can determine if the chain is the problem by lifting the rear wheel off the ground (using the center stand or boards to lift the bike under the engine). Start the bike, place it in 3rd gear and barely give it gas, the wheel should rotate. Look to see if it is bouncing, rubbing etc., tighten chain or in rare cases add a spacer to the chain guard to keep it from hitting.
Check the tool kit, it usually rattles. You can add some cloth to quiet it.
Check for things rubbing, the fender of muffler especially. If it is the muffler, you can push on it, and bend it 1/8th inch or so to keep it from rubbing. The fender might need to be adjusted, or with the plastic fenders, you can use scissors to trim it.
On the Cub, there is a fender under the rear fender, if adults ride the bike, it will rub; use scissors to trim it, or unbolt it altogether.
Check for loose bolts, especially on top of the forks, the yoke (the nut under the fork plate), and the shocks.
Symptom: The engine revs up when the handle bars turn.
Solution: Check the throttle cable, to be sure it isn't caught on something, if this is not the problem, then loosening the throttle slack by turning the adjustment nut by the throttle should do the trick (the idle speed should be set on the carburetor, the adjustment on the throttle cable should be to take up the slack so that the throttle responds better, some slack is needed or the speed will change every time the cable moves).
Symptom: The bike runs good, but seems gutless.
Solution: Our bikes have a lot of torque and power, even the 50cc ones. The first thing to check is the tire pressure, be sure they are filled to 36 PSI (they are shipped with about 10 lbs, even 20 lbs will cause so much drag as to rob you of power). Next check the choke, be sure the lever is all the way down (they choke is useful for starting cold engines, but should not be used for normal driving, it will rob you off power, flood the engine resulting in stalling and spark plug fowling). If you are still having problems, check the air mixture setting, (see adjusting the idle).
DO YOUR MAINTENANCE: These bikes are simple, not too much to maintain (especially compared to many of the new fancy ones) Your manual tells you what needs to be done, when and how to do it. The most important is to change your oil, especially the 1st oil change at or before 500 miles. The biggest maintenance item is the chain check it at least weekly (it should take you only 10 seconds to check), adjust as needed and keep it lubricated (the wax style of chain lube is less messy), especially after you wash your bike or have ridden through water or in the rain. Don't forget the valves, there should be a slight noise, no noise means they are too tight (too tight and they won't last long), to loose and they will make a loud annoying noise. The manual explains how to adjust them (they are easier than most valves to adjust, but you would do well to ask help from someone who is experienced, at least for the first time). Check for loose bolts. Check and clean the air filter, especially if you have been riding in dusty areas. That's about it.
If you are still having problems, Contact us. You are a valuable customer, I will go to great lengths to help you solve your problem as quickly as possible (if you did not purchase your bike from us, as much as I would like to, I don't have time to help you, you need to contact your dealer, or pay your local Honda dealer to help you, sorry).
Call 206-849-5365 (M-Sat. 9-6 PST)